The Benjamin Franklin House

I am off gadding this weekend, and the salon will reopen on Monday 15th June, so do enjoy my memories of a recent weekend trip to the city!

Last month, I had the pleasure of visiting the Benjamin Franklin House on Craven Street, London, where I joined the unique Historical Experience tour. I have never visited the house before and really didn't know what to expect from the tour but, as fan of all things 18th century and theatrical, the chance to be accompanied through this historical gem in the presence of the Georgian landlady's daughter was too tempting a prospect to miss.

Situated just off of one of the busiest streets in London, the house at 36 Craven Street nestles in an oasis of genteel calm where once, before Georgian gentrification, prostitutes and cutpurses roamed. By the time Franklin took up residence there in 1757, things were considerably more refined. Franklin's landlady was a respectable widow named Mrs Margaret Stevenson and she lived at Craven Street with her daughter, Polly, who was to become one of Franklin's closest friends.

The house, where Franklin eventually lived for sixteen years, is remarkable in that it retains many of its original features. Its rooms have been left unfurnished so that one might get a sense of them without distraction, leaving the visitor free to admire the architectural features that were so familiar to Franklin from the creak of the boards to the preserved fireplaces and a remarkable staircase, where one might pause after the tour to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of the house. It is not so difficult to imagine Franklin coming and going, to hear the light tread of Polly on the stairs as she came in search of her learned friend.

The tour begins in the basement, once the garden of the house, where one has the opportunity to view the house's small permanent collection. This includes a great many bones which were found during work on the property and proved to be the leftovers from the anatomy school run from the building by Polly's physician husband. A short film introduces the building and gives an overview of Franklin's remarkable achievements life before he came to England and then visitors are whisked into the world of the 18th century in the company of Polly, who escorts the party from room to room, proving a most unusual tour guide.

The tour is quite unlike anything I have undertaken before and I absolutely loved it. Interacting with prerecorded sound and video, the actress playing Polly paints a picture of life in a busy household which became the centre of Franklin's world. Spending sixteen years in England without his own wife and family, he became a member of this family instead and extracts from his papers as well as social and political context are woven seamlessly throughout the tour. 

Following the conclusion of the scripted performance, a member of staff joins the party to answer questions and guests are allowed to take photographs of the remarkable building, as well as given a chance to soak up the atmosphere.

A particular delight for me was the opportunity not only to view but to have a musical turn on a replica of Franklin's Glass Armonica. This remarkable musical instrument, operated by a treadle (though the replica is motor-driven),  uses connected glass bowls and water to produce notes in much the same manner as running one's wet finger over the rim of a wine glass. I don't think Franklin would have been too impressed by my efforts, but it was wonderful fun to have a go!

The Glass Armonica

On our tour, the role of Polly was taken by Nicole Magdalena, and she really does deserve applause. She inhabited the role completely and though working with only sound and video must surely be a challenge, Nicole's effortless performance could not be faulted. From her movement to her voice and manner, she perfectly captured that certain particular gentility that one associates with women of the Georgian era, and whether sharing Polly's wonder at the discoveries made by Franklin or deep sorrow at his eventual departure from English shores, she absolutely drew the guests into the world of the house and its inhabitants.

My enormous thanks must also go to all the team who arranged our tour and made us feel wonderfully welcome. 

In addition to the Historical Experience, the house also hosts a weekly Architectural Tour and I intend to return and undertake one of these too; this house is truly a gem of 18th century London and I urge you to go along and visit Craven Street, you won't regret it.

http://www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org/site/sections/default.htm

Photographs ©Benjamin Franklin House

The Inauguration of George Washington

At our last meeting with George Washington, we witnessed the final hours of the ailing President's life. Today though, I am happy to mark a far happier event in that particular gentleman's life and one that marked on iconic moment. On 30th April 1789, George Washington attended Federal Hall in New York to be received by Robert Livington, the Chancellor of the State of New York. In the hours that followed, he was inaugurated as the first president in this history of America.

 George Washington's Inauguration by Ramon de Elorriaga, 1899

As the day dawned an excited crowd began to amass in the city, keen to witness this historic event and whilst some went directly to Federal Hall, others lined the roads along the route Washington would take to reach his Wall Street destination. He had only been in New York a week, having travelled from Virginia and when he emerged from the house to meet his supporters, Washington was dressed in a dark brown suit of American cloth, with bright white stockings. His shoes bore silver buckles and at his hip he wore a ceremonial sword.

Federal Hall

When he arrived at Federal Hall, Washington was taken first to the Senate chamber and then to the balcony where 10,000 people watched as Livingston swore in the new president. Using the bible from St. John's Masonic Lodge No.1, the solemn oath was undertaken by a clearly nervous Washington. Indeed, my colonial gentleman's people in the know say that you could fairly see his hands shaking as the ceremony progressed. As the military fired a 13 gun salute the crowd gave an uproarious cheer to welcome the new president into his now iconic office.

Hannah Van Buren, The First Lady Who Wasn't

Hannah Van Buren (née Hannah Hoes; Kinderhook, New York, America, 8th March 1783 - Washington DC, America, 5th February 1819)

We take a trip over the Atlantic today to meet meet the wife of a man who became president. Unassuming, devoted to her family and destined to die at a young age, Hannah Van Buren passed away almost twenty years before her husband took office, a tragic victim of consumption.

Hannah Van Buren was born to Johannes Dircksen Hoes and Maria Quakenbush in Kinderhook, where she was raised in a Dutch home. As a girl Hannah spoke Dutch and never lost her accent throughout her life. Shy and unassuming, Hannah met her distant cousin, Martin Van Buren, as a child, and the pair grew up as sweethearts. 

It can have been no surprise when the couple became engaged and, once Van Buren was established in his New York legal practice, the couple were married on 21st February 1807. Matin always called his wife Jannetje and was devoted to her and though their marriage was not to be long-lasting, the couple had five children, four of whom lived to adulthood.

When the Van Burens moved to Albany in pursuit of Martin's political career, Hannah devoted herself to her family and husband. She also took part in philanthropic activities on behalf of the Dutch Reformed Church, although these were curtailed as her health began a steep decline. Aged just 35, Hannah had contracted tuberculosis and her condition declined drastically as the illness took hold. Philanthropic to the last, she requested that her funeral be a simple one and that any money saved might be used instead to buy food for the poor of Albany.

Van Buren was devastated at Hannah's death and never remarried; instead, his daughter-in-law, Angelica Singleton Van Buren, served as unofficial First Lady during his presidency. In fact, Hannah predeceased both her mother and father and when Van Buren wrote his autobiography he did not mention his beloved Jannetje at all. 

George Washington: Death of a President

George Washington (Westmoreland, Virginia, America, 22nd February 1732 - Mount Vernon, Virginia, America, 14th December 1799)

George Washington by Gilbert Stuart, 1797

Most of our time here at the Guide is spent gadding about on European soil, yet today marks the anniversary of the death of George Washington and, since I share my abode with a colonial gentleman, it seems only right to commemorate this occasion.

The weather in Virginia in December 1799 was foul, winter growing deeper with each passing day. Despite the freezing rain and deep snow, however, George Washington spent hours outdoors as he made inspections of his plantation. When he finally returned to shelter in search of food and warmth he was freezing, no doubt glad for home and hearth.

The following morning Washington awoke to face the day and found himself suffering from a painfully sore throat. Once again though there was plantation work to be done and he travelled abroad in the heavily falling snow, spending hours outside. He retired to bed that night with no respite from the sore throat that had plagued him, waking in the early hours of 14th December barely able to breathe, let alone speak.

With no physician on hand an estate manager was summoned and Washington instructed him to begin bloodletting, in total removing approximately half of pint of blood. Meanwhile, the president's personal physician, Dr James Craik, was summoned, along with Dr Gustavus Brown and Dr Elisha Dick. Upon consulting their illustrious patient the three medics disagreed on their diagnoses yet all were of one mind that further bloodletting must take place and, in the next few hours, almost half the blood in Washington's body was removed. Dick was adamant that the problem was an inflammation of the throat that could only be cured by performing a tracheotomy yet the unfamiliar procedure was rarely undertaken and the more experienced men rejected the proposal out of hand.

With every treatment failing, the doctors laboured on until Washington died at 10pm, uttering his final words, "Tis well." Almost immediately the three physicians were called to account for his death, a tragedy which many believed had been caused by the extreme amount of bloodletting Washinton had endured. As they defended their actions and reputations George Washington was laid to rest at Mount Vernon four days after his death, leaving a nation to mourn.

Letitia Christian Tyler, First Lady of America

Letitia Christian Tyler (Virginia, America, 12th November 1790 – Washington DC, America, 10th September 1842)

It is a pleasure to welcome a lady to the salon today for a story that is a little less bloodthirsty than those I have been telling of late. There are no nooses, no revolutions and no duplicitous children in the story of First Lady Letitia Tyler, as I am sure she would be glad to know!

Letitia was born to wealthy planter and politician Colonel Robert Christian and his wife, Mary Brown-Christian at her father's Cedar Grove plantation in New Kent County, Virginia. As a girl Letitia was shy and timid but she enjoyed a happy upbringing, growing into a thoughtful and intelligent young lady with a devout religious faith. Although she received no formal education, Letitia was charged with supervision of the slaves in the kitchens at Cedar Grove, making a request that no female slaves should work outdoors. 

John Tyler, 1826

At the age of 18 Letitia met a law student of the same age named John Tyler and the two began a chaste attachment, courting for five years as John's political career began to blossom. The couple were devoted to one another and when they finally married on Letitia's 23rd birthday, their vows were exchanged at Cedar Grove. The Tylers were married for 29 years and loved one another deeply, raising seven children together. Both of Letitiia's parents died not long after the marriage and it was their bequest that funded her husband's political ambitions, with the new Mrs Tyler in full support. However, the couple experienced repeated financial hardships and eventually Letitia took responsibility for both domestic and financial affairs; indeed, she remained her husband's most respected and trusted advisor until her death.

Letitia had no interest in the life of a political spouse and instead devoted herself to providing a loving and supportive household for her children, remaining in Virginia when John's career took him to Washington. At the age of 49, Letitia suffered a devastating stroke that severely restricted her mobility and when her husband became President of the United States just two years later she did move with him to the White House, where she retained her privacy, absenting herself from social duties on the grounds of her health. Official engagements were undertaken by her daughter-in-law, Priscilla Cooper Tyler, though Letitia managed the domestic matters of the household. In fact, the First Lady did venture into the public areas of the White House just once, when she attended the wedding of her daughter in 1842.

Letitia's health never recovered from her first stroke and she deteriorated rapidly following a second in 1842. That same year she became the first First Lady to die in the White House, passing away peacefully in her sleep. After her coffin had lain in state for a number of days as the city mourned, she was taken from Washington to the plantation where she had been both born and wed and laid to rest there.